Anchoring Your Boat


At least for now, there are not any Federal requirements for carrying an anchor aboard your recreational boat. Though some states do require all boats to carry an anchor, but there is a lot more too successful anchoring than just having one on board.

Many boaters feel that an anchor is merely a device for tossing overboard when you want to stop for lunch or slip into a quiet cove for a few casts. If you're caught in a storm and fighting desperately to keep your disabled boat from being swept onto a rocky shore or into some other dangerous area, however, you'll be glad to have something with pointy things on it dragging across the bottom and eventually digging in or holding on. An anchor is also the best way to hold your boat in the river, maybe right over the spot where that big catfish just may be hiding!

Anchoring goes back to prehistoric days. Large stones have been found in ancient seabeds with telltale grooves or holes drilled in them. Through thousands of years, anchors have evolved from grooved stones, to stones put in baskets or cages, then wood and stones, then wood and iron, and finally to the more modern navy and CQR (secure) anchors, to today's popular Danforth style. But I doubt that the improvements came about because of a pressing need to keep the boat in place while lunch was being served.

With today's advanced materials and low cost, there really is no reason that a modern recreational boater should be without at least one good anchor and enough adequate rode (anchor line and chain). The anchor should be the right size for the boat, and the rode should be of appropriate length for the depth of water in which the boat usually operates. In general terms, for a long term anchorage the rode should be at least seven times as long as the water is deep, measured from the deck of the boat to the bottom. In heavy weather, extend the rode to at least 10 times the depth of the water. So, if you expect to hold your boat securely in thirty feet of water, you should expect to pay out at least 210 feet of anchor line. For a quick stop, I usually use between 3 and 5 times the depth. A length of chain between the anchor and the line will also give you added holding power. The chain will keep the flukes low where the anchor can set more easily, and unlike fiber lines, won't become a victim to abrasion on a rocky or sandy bottom.

A float added to the end of your rode closest to the boat will help keep you from running over the line should you need to cast loose quickly to follow a huge cat, or maybe get out of the way of an oncoming boat that can’t avoid you. It will also allow you to find the line again and retrieve all your gear back aboard.

If you're anchoring overnight, or leaving the boat temporarily without a watch stander, make sure to check your boat's "swing" radius before settling in. If the wind should change, you wouldn’t want your boat swinging into someone else's mooring area or onshore. Also check whether your anchor is really set; visually establish a relative sighting between something on your boat, like a cleat, and some other landmark on shore, if possible. Then look every five or ten minutes to see if the landmark has moved in relative to your on-board marker. By checking it frequently for the first half-hour or so, you'll soon know whether any movement is because of normal boat swing, or because you're still drifting.

Now, some steps for securing your boat.

Store Your Anchor Conveniently

Anchor and rode stowage in small boats is limited, and I use a plastic milk crate to stow my anchor gear out of the way until needed. Lay the rode in from the bitter end (the end not tied to the anchor) and don't bother coiling it, then add the chain, and top it off with the anchor. It will dry quickly and best of all, the rode never tangles like it will on the deck of the boat. A milk crate is a cheap investment and can found in the house wares department of most any store.

Know the Bottom.

 A local chart will alert you to underwater obstructions as well as tell you if the bottom is mud, sand, rock or grass, and this information could encourage you to move your planned anchoring site to an area with better holding potential. The bottom characteristics are represented on charts by common symbols such as Rky (rocky), M (mud), S (sand), Cl (clay) or Grs (grass).

Choose the Right Anchor.

You'll maximize your holding power by matching your anchor with the type of bottom, but the subject of "best anchor" has always been a topic of debate among boaters. There are two basic types of anchors burying or hooking. Burying anchors penetrate and grip the bottom material, while hooking anchors rely on snagging the surface of the bottom. Burying anchors, such as the Danforth, Fortress, CQR, Bruce, Navy and wishbone are best in sand, clay, and mud bottoms. With the exception of the CQR, grass is a problem for burying anchors because they can't penetrate the surface to bite. Hooking anchors, such as the old-fashioned hook and the grapnel, are best in gravel, coral, rock and weed-covered bottoms. But really there is no “best anchor”, so make a selection that will best handle the majority of bottoms in your area. Also Talk to other experienced boat owners in your area to find out what they are using and why. You may even want to carry two different types of anchors so you'll always have a good bite on various bottoms.

Use the Right Rode

Your anchor gear consists of two elements, the anchor and the rode. Rode is the nautical term for the length of line that connects the anchor with the boat. The rode should be a stretchy line (usually nylon) to help absorb shocks from wave action, and you need a length of chain at the anchor to hold the rode close to the bottom for the maximum holding potential of the anchor. A length of chain also helps protect your nylon rode from abrasions on rocky bottoms. Chain length is variable, with a twenty foot boat using a chain length of between 10 feet and 20 feet. Your rode should be at least six times the deepest water you plan on using, plus another 10 to 20 percent for a safety margin. If you have two sets of anchors, you can shackle the two rode’s together should you need some additional length.

Determine the Proper Scope

The usual scope for good weather is 6 to 1, (6 feet of anchor rode for every 1 foot of depth) which should provide you good sound holding. In unstable weather or exposed anchorages, add more scope just for insurance. You may also want to mark your anchor rode (inexpensive plastic tags are available at marine hardware stores) so you'll better know just how much to rode to let out.

Don't Splash

You should never toss an anchor over the bow, it’s a sure way to both tangle your anchor and mark yourself as an amateur. Or worse yet, you could tangle a foot in the line or forget to fasten it to an anchor point and loose all your ground gear. Also make sure that the boat has stopped all its forward motion before lowering the anchor, or you could end up tangling your rode into the propeller.

Set the Anchor Firmly.

Back the boat up steadily, paying out anchor rode until you reach the predetermined scope. Secure the rode to a bow cleat, and then continue using a bit of reverse power to help the anchor dig in and set securely. Once anchored, give the anchor rode a solid tug to see if it's holding. You'll feel it if the anchor skips along the bottom. Also from time to time, check your bearings to ensure you haven’t moved or drifted anywhere.

Beware of Abrasion.

Keep an eye open for chafe. An anchor rode moving over a rough edge with every wave can wear through in minutes. If necessary, use rags to insulate or pad the rode or move it to another location. A bow roller is valuable protection if you intend to anchor regularly.

As you're going over your checklist this year, pay particular attention to your ground tackle, anchor, line, chain, shackles, because it’s the only parking brake you’ll ever have available for your boat!

Posted by blog.houseboatodyssey1.com at 5/10/2010 5:20 PM
Categories: Boating “Or Water” Safety, Article, Boating, Various 101's:Various 101’s
Tags: boat scope anchors safety anchor rode anchoring
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