How to Replace Your Pontoon Boat Carpeting
So the carpeting on your pontoon boat is looking somewhat shabby or otherwise worn out. If you own or have access to basic homeowner tools you’ll probably be able to do the job yourself, and also save yourself some money in the process. The hardest part of the job is the actual removal of the old carpet.
When a pontoon boat is assembled the manufacturers glue the carpeting down to the bare deck before any other hardware or seating has been installed. So you’ll need to do the reverse and take all the components off down to the bare deck again, and then reassemble as we’ll get to later. This is the only right way to do the job and have professional looking results that you will be proud of. I’d also suggest taking some photos along the way, thereby providing yourself a visual reference when reassembling your boat or maybe even for sharing your experience with some friends.
So this is what we’re going to need to do, which we’ll go into better detail below. The seats, railings, console, and bimini top will all have to be removed from the deck and stored somewhere safe and out of the way. Then you’ll need to remove the rub rail “trim” from around the perimeter of the deck and remove the old carpeting. You’ll then install the new carpet and reassemble the boat.
A Suggested List Necessary Tools and Supplies
First you’ll need to purchase or acquire your replacement marine carpet or vinyl in your choice of color at least as wide and long to seamlessly cover the entire deck, along with a couple of gallons of the proper adhesive to glue it into place.
Then round up some container(s) in which to keep all the nuts, bolts, and screws etc. in as you remove them. Also gather up a utility knife and some extra sharp blades, wrenches, sockets, ratchet, screwdrivers, wire cutters, masking tape, sharpie, butt connectors for wire, plastic wire ties, trash bag or two, some c-clamps or vice grips, right angle grinder, maybe a come-along, staple gun and some stainless steel staples, some old maybe used paint rollers, and a heavy roller in which to set the new carpet/flooring into the glue.
If you can’t access a roller a four-by-four block of wood and a large hammer will work, but it is more effort and will take longer.
The first thing we’ll want to do is disconnect the battery, then we’ll no longer need to worry about any live wires or shorts as we’re working. Use caution and attempt not to damage any wiring by just pulling on it. Remember there will be various wires running to every component or feature aboard your boat and they’ll either need to be reused or replaced. Some of the wires will have connectors that will simply pull apart, if not simply cut the wires and label them with masking tape for your future reference. All the cut wires will be spliced back together utilizing butt connectors during the reassembly process.
Let’s remove the bimini top “first” and get it out of the way. Somewhere on the console side there will be wiring that runs up to the anchor light, find this wiring first and disconnect it before addressing the bolts that attach it to the railing.
Next we’ll remove all the seating from the boat. As a rule most seats are generally screwed into the plywood deck (but not always) you’ll need to find and remove all the fasteners and place them in a container for reuse (remember to mark and identify unplug/cut any wiring as necessary). In some instances you may also find the seats may be fastened to the fence railing as well. As you get the seating freed remove it from the boat and continue on until all the seats are removed from the boat.
Now it’s time to remove all the fence railing, supports, and any lighting from the deck. Doing this before removing the console will actually makes it easier. As you remove the bolts place them all in your cool whip container or whatever, but do not lose them we’ll need them all for reassembly later.
Now it’s time to remove the console as a complete assembly. You will not need to take anything apart in the dashboard though you will need to disconnect all the wires that go down through the deck. You will observe a hole in the bottom of the console that goes on through the deck itself where the wiring harness extends to the various electrical components and or speakers throughout the boat. First let’s disconnect the wiring harness; there are usually some plugs that can be carefully pulled apart, this feature also allowed for fast and easy assembly at the factory. Any wiring failing to have plugs either disconnect or cut them, remembering to label them to as to where they came from. Cut any wire ties holding the harness to the console and the wiring is now ready to be pushed down through the deck and out of the way.
Now to disconnect the steering cable, most pontoons utilize a rotary type system that has a quick disconnect feature. Get a light and look up to where the cable goes into the steering helm. You’ll probably see a clip and you’ll need to pull it out and store it for safekeeping. There is usually a push lock located right where the cable goes in, push it and give the cable a tug at the same time and the cable should come loose. You still may need to cut some plastic ties but otherwise you are now ready to feed it down through the deck. Note: the now exposed end of the cable is usually thick with grease!! You may want a bread bag or something to stick over it to protect everything from grease contamination.
Now on to the easy part, remove the bolts/screws that hold the console to the deck and take the whole assembly and store it somewhere safely out of the way.
We’re now on to removing the outer parameter trim/rub rail from the deck. First remove all the corner pieces from both the front and back of the boat, and on some models there will be an additional four (two inside, two outside) around the cutout for the motor. Sometimes looking under the edge from the underside you’ll observe some small screws that hold the trim to the deck, and you’ll also want to remove them. Now starting at one of the ends of the trim slide a screwdriver between the trim and the deck and gently pry the trim back away from the deck. Now you want to carefully work the trim loose all the way down the length of the boat. Just don’t get to aggressive with it, you really don’t want to bend, kink or otherwise damage it.
We’re now looking at bare deck with nothing on it but the shabby old carpeting.
On to removing the old carpeting, first take a razor or utility knife and cut the old carpeting about six inches in around the entire deck. This is an attempt of preventing the plywood from being delaminated or otherwise damaged while removing the old carpet. Many pontoon boat manufactures actually staple the edges of the carpet to the deck to hold it in place for the trim assembly. What you’ll want to do is start by removing the outer six inches you just previously cut making every effort you can to avoid damaging the edge of the deck. Use a stout putty knife or whatever you find that helps you in getting some of it loose. After loosening enough carpet to actually get a hold of, try pulling it outwards about even with the side of the boat while praying that it actually comes off in one long length.
Now that we’ve got the carpet edges done it’s now time to do the “rest of the carpet”.
Let’s go to the back of the deck and attempt to pull the carpet by hand. If it’s securely adhered try scraping a foot or so loose across the back and attempt pulling it again. Still won’t move for you, since the back carpet is usually in better condition you may want to pull it. Take a length of two by four and piece of pipe or whatever and roll it up and somehow clamp everything together. Grab your trusty come-along or even utilizing the boat winch itself, after somehow getting a good secure hitch to the carpeting start winching away until either the carpet tears and repeat as necessary or it is all otherwise removed from the deck.
Deck preparation, this can sometimes take some time and effort. The entire surface must be smooth and free of any dirt or contamination. Use a scrapper to clear off any small areas of carpet that may still remain. A right angle grinder can also be useful in getting the remaining old glue and carpet off. If there are any voids or low spots due to delaminating of the plywood, use any waterproof wood filler or caulking to fill the voids. However whatever you use must set up hard. When you’re all done scraping, grinding, and sanding, take the time to sweep or vacuum the deck off thoroughly.
Well we’re halfway home; we now have a clean sound deck without anything on it.
The installation of your new marine carpeting starts by unrolling the new carpet out on the deck and positioning it so there is hangover on the edge all the way around the deck. I’ve always disconnected the control cables and steering cables and feed them down below the deck, but you may have chosen not to yourself. If you left yours exposed we’ll now position the carpet and cut an X in it with the utility knife and feed the cables up through the new carpeting. The cut will be under the console so it won’t show so no one will ever know.
Now leave the carpet in place and roll it back to the cables if left exposed or about halfway down the boat if you didn’t. Now pour a generous quantity of glue onto the deck and use a long handled paint roller to spread it all around evenly. Then roll the carpet back out on top of the glue, and utilize the heavy roller on top of the carpet to firmly set carpet into the glue.
When you’re satisfied the first half is done, roll the unglued half back to the previously glued surface. If you left the cables exposed take special care now to brush some glue in that area and then proceed to pour another generous amount onto the deck and spread it around just as you’ve already done on the first half. Then rolling the carpet back out on top of the glue, again utilizing the roller on top to set everything.
If you just don't have access to or can rent a roller, use a 4x4 block of wood and a large hammer.(this will take longer, but it will work) After rolling the carpet out over the glue, use the block of wood on top of the new carpet and hit it with the hammer while moving the block with each hit until the entire area has been covered. This will set the carpet into the glue.
Now go around the entire edge of the deck with a utility knife and carefully trim all the excess carpet even with the edge of the plywood. Then Grab the stapler and staple the edge of the carpet to the deck. The staples need to be no more than 1/4" from the edge, all the way around, and about an inch or two apart.
Reassembly of the boat is in the exact reverse order in which you just took it apart, just put everything back together again. Starting with the trim around the deck, Use the rubber mallet to pound it back on along the edge of the plywood. Suggestion when you’ve got the edge mostly back into place, bolt the corners back to it. The trim can be pounded on the end(s) to move it forward or backward to line up the corners. Finish pounding the trim on, putting any screws removed back into the bottom side of the trim to hold it to the deck.
Tip: Use a scraper or a stout utility knife to push any carpet back under the trim that may have gotten pushed back when putting the trim back on.
Now to finish putting all the seating and components back onto the boat. Now if you didn’t manage to keep all the fasteners separated during the disassembly you’ll need to dump them all out, and sort them by size, length, and type of fastener. This will make it easy to find the ones you need when you actually need them. Start by counting the number of places that need the same type of bolt, then back to the sorted bolts for the quantity with that number. (most of the time that's all you’ll really need to figure it out). Use special care to match up all previously marked and cut wires and make sure to make good butt joint crimps in their reassembly.
Then after you think everything is back and right, do a final check to insure that all navigation, docking, anchor, speakers, etc. are hooked back up and still working as they should before you’re really needing them out on the water.
Though “carpet” was primarily referred to in the above “how to”, marine vinyl is also installed following the exact same procedures except the manufacture may recommend a specific adhesive for their product.
If you have any further questions, please post on the comments below and we’ll attempt to help you out…..
Thanks for visiting us here at PontoonHouseboatOdyssey
When a pontoon boat is assembled the manufacturers glue the carpeting down to the bare deck before any other hardware or seating has been installed. So you’ll need to do the reverse and take all the components off down to the bare deck again, and then reassemble as we’ll get to later. This is the only right way to do the job and have professional looking results that you will be proud of. I’d also suggest taking some photos along the way, thereby providing yourself a visual reference when reassembling your boat or maybe even for sharing your experience with some friends.
So this is what we’re going to need to do, which we’ll go into better detail below. The seats, railings, console, and bimini top will all have to be removed from the deck and stored somewhere safe and out of the way. Then you’ll need to remove the rub rail “trim” from around the perimeter of the deck and remove the old carpeting. You’ll then install the new carpet and reassemble the boat.
A Suggested List Necessary Tools and Supplies
First you’ll need to purchase or acquire your replacement marine carpet or vinyl in your choice of color at least as wide and long to seamlessly cover the entire deck, along with a couple of gallons of the proper adhesive to glue it into place.
Then round up some container(s) in which to keep all the nuts, bolts, and screws etc. in as you remove them. Also gather up a utility knife and some extra sharp blades, wrenches, sockets, ratchet, screwdrivers, wire cutters, masking tape, sharpie, butt connectors for wire, plastic wire ties, trash bag or two, some c-clamps or vice grips, right angle grinder, maybe a come-along, staple gun and some stainless steel staples, some old maybe used paint rollers, and a heavy roller in which to set the new carpet/flooring into the glue.
If you can’t access a roller a four-by-four block of wood and a large hammer will work, but it is more effort and will take longer.
The first thing we’ll want to do is disconnect the battery, then we’ll no longer need to worry about any live wires or shorts as we’re working. Use caution and attempt not to damage any wiring by just pulling on it. Remember there will be various wires running to every component or feature aboard your boat and they’ll either need to be reused or replaced. Some of the wires will have connectors that will simply pull apart, if not simply cut the wires and label them with masking tape for your future reference. All the cut wires will be spliced back together utilizing butt connectors during the reassembly process.
Let’s remove the bimini top “first” and get it out of the way. Somewhere on the console side there will be wiring that runs up to the anchor light, find this wiring first and disconnect it before addressing the bolts that attach it to the railing.
Next we’ll remove all the seating from the boat. As a rule most seats are generally screwed into the plywood deck (but not always) you’ll need to find and remove all the fasteners and place them in a container for reuse (remember to mark and identify unplug/cut any wiring as necessary). In some instances you may also find the seats may be fastened to the fence railing as well. As you get the seating freed remove it from the boat and continue on until all the seats are removed from the boat.
Now it’s time to remove all the fence railing, supports, and any lighting from the deck. Doing this before removing the console will actually makes it easier. As you remove the bolts place them all in your cool whip container or whatever, but do not lose them we’ll need them all for reassembly later.
Now it’s time to remove the console as a complete assembly. You will not need to take anything apart in the dashboard though you will need to disconnect all the wires that go down through the deck. You will observe a hole in the bottom of the console that goes on through the deck itself where the wiring harness extends to the various electrical components and or speakers throughout the boat. First let’s disconnect the wiring harness; there are usually some plugs that can be carefully pulled apart, this feature also allowed for fast and easy assembly at the factory. Any wiring failing to have plugs either disconnect or cut them, remembering to label them to as to where they came from. Cut any wire ties holding the harness to the console and the wiring is now ready to be pushed down through the deck and out of the way.
Now to disconnect the steering cable, most pontoons utilize a rotary type system that has a quick disconnect feature. Get a light and look up to where the cable goes into the steering helm. You’ll probably see a clip and you’ll need to pull it out and store it for safekeeping. There is usually a push lock located right where the cable goes in, push it and give the cable a tug at the same time and the cable should come loose. You still may need to cut some plastic ties but otherwise you are now ready to feed it down through the deck. Note: the now exposed end of the cable is usually thick with grease!! You may want a bread bag or something to stick over it to protect everything from grease contamination.
Now on to the easy part, remove the bolts/screws that hold the console to the deck and take the whole assembly and store it somewhere safely out of the way.
We’re now on to removing the outer parameter trim/rub rail from the deck. First remove all the corner pieces from both the front and back of the boat, and on some models there will be an additional four (two inside, two outside) around the cutout for the motor. Sometimes looking under the edge from the underside you’ll observe some small screws that hold the trim to the deck, and you’ll also want to remove them. Now starting at one of the ends of the trim slide a screwdriver between the trim and the deck and gently pry the trim back away from the deck. Now you want to carefully work the trim loose all the way down the length of the boat. Just don’t get to aggressive with it, you really don’t want to bend, kink or otherwise damage it.
We’re now looking at bare deck with nothing on it but the shabby old carpeting.
On to removing the old carpeting, first take a razor or utility knife and cut the old carpeting about six inches in around the entire deck. This is an attempt of preventing the plywood from being delaminated or otherwise damaged while removing the old carpet. Many pontoon boat manufactures actually staple the edges of the carpet to the deck to hold it in place for the trim assembly. What you’ll want to do is start by removing the outer six inches you just previously cut making every effort you can to avoid damaging the edge of the deck. Use a stout putty knife or whatever you find that helps you in getting some of it loose. After loosening enough carpet to actually get a hold of, try pulling it outwards about even with the side of the boat while praying that it actually comes off in one long length.
Now that we’ve got the carpet edges done it’s now time to do the “rest of the carpet”.
Let’s go to the back of the deck and attempt to pull the carpet by hand. If it’s securely adhered try scraping a foot or so loose across the back and attempt pulling it again. Still won’t move for you, since the back carpet is usually in better condition you may want to pull it. Take a length of two by four and piece of pipe or whatever and roll it up and somehow clamp everything together. Grab your trusty come-along or even utilizing the boat winch itself, after somehow getting a good secure hitch to the carpeting start winching away until either the carpet tears and repeat as necessary or it is all otherwise removed from the deck.
Deck preparation, this can sometimes take some time and effort. The entire surface must be smooth and free of any dirt or contamination. Use a scrapper to clear off any small areas of carpet that may still remain. A right angle grinder can also be useful in getting the remaining old glue and carpet off. If there are any voids or low spots due to delaminating of the plywood, use any waterproof wood filler or caulking to fill the voids. However whatever you use must set up hard. When you’re all done scraping, grinding, and sanding, take the time to sweep or vacuum the deck off thoroughly.
Well we’re halfway home; we now have a clean sound deck without anything on it.
The installation of your new marine carpeting starts by unrolling the new carpet out on the deck and positioning it so there is hangover on the edge all the way around the deck. I’ve always disconnected the control cables and steering cables and feed them down below the deck, but you may have chosen not to yourself. If you left yours exposed we’ll now position the carpet and cut an X in it with the utility knife and feed the cables up through the new carpeting. The cut will be under the console so it won’t show so no one will ever know.
Now leave the carpet in place and roll it back to the cables if left exposed or about halfway down the boat if you didn’t. Now pour a generous quantity of glue onto the deck and use a long handled paint roller to spread it all around evenly. Then roll the carpet back out on top of the glue, and utilize the heavy roller on top of the carpet to firmly set carpet into the glue.
When you’re satisfied the first half is done, roll the unglued half back to the previously glued surface. If you left the cables exposed take special care now to brush some glue in that area and then proceed to pour another generous amount onto the deck and spread it around just as you’ve already done on the first half. Then rolling the carpet back out on top of the glue, again utilizing the roller on top to set everything.
If you just don't have access to or can rent a roller, use a 4x4 block of wood and a large hammer.(this will take longer, but it will work) After rolling the carpet out over the glue, use the block of wood on top of the new carpet and hit it with the hammer while moving the block with each hit until the entire area has been covered. This will set the carpet into the glue.
Now go around the entire edge of the deck with a utility knife and carefully trim all the excess carpet even with the edge of the plywood. Then Grab the stapler and staple the edge of the carpet to the deck. The staples need to be no more than 1/4" from the edge, all the way around, and about an inch or two apart.
Reassembly of the boat is in the exact reverse order in which you just took it apart, just put everything back together again. Starting with the trim around the deck, Use the rubber mallet to pound it back on along the edge of the plywood. Suggestion when you’ve got the edge mostly back into place, bolt the corners back to it. The trim can be pounded on the end(s) to move it forward or backward to line up the corners. Finish pounding the trim on, putting any screws removed back into the bottom side of the trim to hold it to the deck.
Tip: Use a scraper or a stout utility knife to push any carpet back under the trim that may have gotten pushed back when putting the trim back on.
Now to finish putting all the seating and components back onto the boat. Now if you didn’t manage to keep all the fasteners separated during the disassembly you’ll need to dump them all out, and sort them by size, length, and type of fastener. This will make it easy to find the ones you need when you actually need them. Start by counting the number of places that need the same type of bolt, then back to the sorted bolts for the quantity with that number. (most of the time that's all you’ll really need to figure it out). Use special care to match up all previously marked and cut wires and make sure to make good butt joint crimps in their reassembly.
Then after you think everything is back and right, do a final check to insure that all navigation, docking, anchor, speakers, etc. are hooked back up and still working as they should before you’re really needing them out on the water.
Though “carpet” was primarily referred to in the above “how to”, marine vinyl is also installed following the exact same procedures except the manufacture may recommend a specific adhesive for their product.
If you have any further questions, please post on the comments below and we’ll attempt to help you out…..
Thanks for visiting us here at PontoonHouseboatOdyssey
Posted by blog.houseboatodyssey1.com at 11/28/2010 11:00 AM 
Categories: boating accessories, Pontoon Boat Maintenance, Various 101's:Various 101’s, Pontoon Boat (s), Article, Buying Tips, Pontoon Boating Accessories, Maintenace
Tags: carpet carpeting vinyl how to pontoon boat flooring replacement
Categories: boating accessories, Pontoon Boat Maintenance, Various 101's:Various 101’s, Pontoon Boat (s), Article, Buying Tips, Pontoon Boating Accessories, Maintenace
Tags: carpet carpeting vinyl how to pontoon boat flooring replacement
Carpet flooring can be a good option for those who are trying to change their interiors. Many of the offices and commercial complexes have wooden or tile flooring. While walking on these floors, you get to hear tiptoe sounds and that tends to distract you. The advantage of having carpet flooring is that the carpet has the capability of absorbing the foot tapping sounds and maintains concentration level. Carpets have always been preferred over wooden, tile or laminated flooring, especially in commercial complexes. Another thing to be notices is that, carpet flooring will surely add grace and elegance to the entire interior designing.
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Of course carpet is a viable option in any boating application. But care and consideration of the proposed boating environment must also be taken into consideration. For our needs sandbars, and forever and always enjoying the company of our "Dog" and the associated mess that comes with her vinyl just seemed to be the best of the choices. But boaters who intend to patronize and utilize cleaner boating areas without all the potentials for tracking in filth may very well be best served with choosing a "Quality Marine Carpeting" for their boating use. It all comes down to the best choice of floor coverings is an extremely personal choice that one may or will live with for quite some time so "Choose Wisely".
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Carpet is nice option in boat application. ut care and consideration of the proposed boating environment must also be taken into consideration.But boaters who intend to patronize and utilize cleaner boating areas without all the potentials for tracking in filth may very well be best served with choosing a "Quality Marine Carpeting" for their boating use. But choosing of carpet is yours gentle choice.
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Carpet is nice option in boat application. But care and consideration of the proposed boating environment must also be taken into consideration.But boaters who intend to patronize and utilize cleaner boating areas without all the potentials for tracking in filth may very well be best served with choosing a "Quality Marine Carpeting" for their boating use. But choosing of carpet is yours gentle choice.
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In general a lot of boaters do choose carpet as their floor covering of choice. For boating purposes or uses though "Marine Carpet" is the only real carpet choice. General indoor or outdoor carpet though generally tough enough to withstand the elements is often still lacking in real world boating applications. Often because of the manufactures choice of materials in manufacturing it has a tendency to "hold water" and takes forever to actually dry. Whereas marine carpet dries much, much faster once the rain or water-sports stops for the day. I'm finding that some boaters are now turning to vinyl as their choice on their boats as a easier to maintain carefree choice that doesn't or can't hold residual water on the deck.
Especially if your boat is built with a wooden deck, plywood, etc. even if it is marine rated the wood will thank you for it by potentially providing you with a much longer lifespan. But the real choice is really up to you, but IMO is for the best long-term life expectancy of any wood components under your floor covering choose "marine grade components" as your "floor covering of choice".
Bamby @ PontoonHouseboatOdyssey.Com
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But choosing of carpet is yours gentle choice. Carpet is nice option in boat application. But care and consideration of the proposed boating environment must also be taken into consideration.But boaters who intend to patronize and utilize cleaner boating areas without all the potentials for tracking in filth may very well be best served with choosing a "Quality Marine Carpeting" for their boating use.
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How does replacing carpet on an aluminum deck differ? Does the trim under the rails come off? I've got an 18 ft Suntracker. Thanks
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Help full posts. I have read most of them and got a lot from them. To me, you are doing the great work .
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