BLOG.PONTOONHOUSEBOATODYSSEY.COM

Pontoon Houseboat Plans

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2011-03-25T22:01:00Z

We sometimes receive some correspondence from our readers about how to approach obtaining plans for building a suitable cabin or enclosure for their own pontoon houseboat. I also like to read and follow a few boating forums when I have the time and opportunity so I'm aware there is an interest in this subject. As such and because It is definitely critical that all important design elements be thoroughly considered and thought out and decided upon before acquisitions of any materials or supplies can begin the best potential house boat build. Realizing that actual houseboat plans and information is something that is limited and hard to actually obtain, which I learned the hard way even in this day and age on the internet. When I ran into these plans the other day I realized they may be helpful or useful to some of our viewers here. Some of you may even choose to purchase copies of them to make designing and building your pontoon houseboat a somewhat less complicated experience.

At one time I didn't believe it would be possible to actually design and build a workable cabin for even a small pontoon houseboat as small as 8x8ft. But after looking over the plan thoroughly it appears that though it would be cozy it could and would work. If the materials were followed or carefully chosen for both structural soundness and weight a nice weekend warrior could be built with rather common and pretty easily obtained twenty four foot pontoons as a platform for the build. This alone could make for a huge savings in the total overall cost of the project. The only real downside besides being small of course is that this design is only sleeping for two and even at that the arrangement is quite cozy. But if you have any kids you'll come up a bit short on your sleeping arrangements.

At first glance it would appear that the 12 by 8 foot plan would or maybe could be perfect for a small pontoon houseboat. But at least in my opinion it is really lacking on some serious points that I'd back away from myself. First is the dinette and bed located directly behind the helm. One of the advantages of houseboats is that you can utilize them in relative comfort even in cooler weather. With such a seating arrangement as in this plan the passengers view of the scenery would be severely restricted by design. Moving the dinette front forward like on the other plans would be the best option, but that would also involve moving the settee berth in the rear of the plan. The plan designer only allowed 6'3" for the sleeping berths which is actually a bit short for my height anyway. But since we are working within a twelve foot cabin there is no way to install sleeping berths back to back anyway.

But I can see the physical aspects of the overall design actually working within the confines of the cabin, but actually making it work would involve redrawing the entire plan to make it a truly functional workable arrangement. The overall principals and practically of the plan is actually good for the space, sleeping for four, small bath with wardrobe, and a small kitchen. This cabin unit also would probably work fine on some larger diameter twenty four foot pontoons, but I'd give careful thought to overall materials weight of the structure if I were attempting to build it.

My choice of offering is the 16X8ft. plans offered by this designer. The design seems practical for family use with sleeping provisions for six. The actual floor-plan also seems realistic for both design and functionality. The only thing a bit short with this one IMHO will maybe be actual storage availability. You have to remember that realistically boats themselves require quite a bit of "baggage" that must be stowed on board as required by law. Life jackets, lines, and anchors, etc. will themselves consume a considerable amount of available storage space.

Realizing that for some people the actual drawing of viable working plans for your build could maybe be your biggest challenge I thought the inclusion of these potential plans and ideas could be extremely beneficial to some of you. Fact is if I'd have encounters them when I was looking for plans and ideas for my boat build I'd have given serious consideration of purchasing a set for my pontoon houseboat build. You can purchase the plans shown in the pictures above here at BoatDesigns.Com and it actually save you a considerable amount of time and aggravation and could actually be considered a bargain at their relatively small costs to purchase or buy them. The source of the plans actually markets the cabin plans as an extension to plans they also sell for building the pontoons themselves which they refer to as a "pontoon and deck kit" which you can or may also purchase if you feel that inclined or energetic. But I'm thinking that for most of you at least reading my material on this site are actually looking for insight and ideas of how to design and build a cabin on traditional aluminum pontoons you may be re-purposing for your pontoon houseboat project.

Characteristics and weight of the cabin structures above are also available for your viewing here.

Warning About Buying LED Under Deck Lighting

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2011-02-25T21:34:00Z

I've observed that another site is promoting the sale/sales of what I even consider a very cool LED Under Deck lighting fixture(s) for pontoon boats. I first don't want to see anybody spending their hard earned dollars on buying something they can't also utilize and enjoy. I secondly don't want to see anyone harassed on the water for using said lighting and maybe also get caught up in something like BWI because of said lighting (giving them a reason to check you out). Thirdly in looking over the sites they don’t have the courtesy to even warn perspective buyers that the use of the LED under deck lighting out on the water is prohibited by law anywhere. They just include some very cool inspirational pictures of pontoon boats with their LED lights being utilized illegally out on the water with their under rail lighting as more temptation for you to buy them. So if you’re actually thinking of purchasing said LED lighting at least consider the potential of bring the law down on yourself for your efforts.

My E-Mail correspondences for references are posted below. (I killed links to a competitor’s websites)

I can't find and pull up the real regulations anywhere on the legality of the instillation of boat lighting such as: (Link Removed) and scroll down a bit this link example: (Link Removed) here. I contacted the DNR in the state I boat in most of the time seeking a real source link to where they are illegal because I know for a fact that people who have taken upon themselves have received warning/citations/tickets for their efforts. It's been at least a week since I've contacted them and as of yet they haven't responded to my request. I also did a search on your site without results on the subject also. As you can see the product they are attempting to sell to people aren’t what I'd call cheep myself, and I hate to see folks throwing their money down a rat-hole for something they'll possibly get no use out of.

Your thoughts, opinions, or Help on this subject please.....

Thanks,

Response Below:

Peter Eikenberry to me

This under deck lighting was first proposed back in the 1990's. It is not illegal to install them. But the only time you can turn them on is when you are tied to the dock. The law is very specific. You can't have any lights that interfere or can be mistaken for navigation lights. That is in Rule 1 of both the international and inland rules. Any deviations must be approved by the USCG and they have to issue a letter to the vessel authorizing the deviation from the rule. These are usually only granted when it is impossible for the vessel due to its construction to comply with the positioning of lights. No deviations are granted for additional lights or variances in color or range.

Lights must be certified and tested by an independent laboratory such as Underwriters. They must be labeled as meeting the regulations. I doubt these can. See below. I would want to see some proof they comply before installing them.

You can't just put any old lights on a boat and comply with the laws. If you have further questions Call the USCG at 202-372-1076 or e-mail Phill Cappel philip.j.cappel(remove)@uscg.mil

Title 33: Navigation and Navigable Waters

PART 183—BOATS AND ASSOCIATED EQUIPMENT

Subpart M—Navigation Lights

Source: USCG–1999–6580, 66 FR 55091, Nov. 1, 2001, unless otherwise noted.

§ 183.801 Applicability.

This subpart applies to recreational vessel manufacturers, distributors, and dealers installing such equipment in new recreational vessels constructed after November 1, 2002.

§ 183.803 Definitions.

As used in this subpart:

Dealer means any person who is engaged in the sale and distribution of recreational vessels to purchasers who the seller in good faith believes to be purchasing any such recreational vessel for purposes other than resale.

Distributor means any person engaged in the sale and distribution of recreational vessels for the purpose of resale.

Manufacturer means any person engaged in:

(1) The manufacture, construction, or assembly of recreational vessels, or (2) The importation of recreational vessels into the United States for subsequent sale. Navigation lights are those lights prescribed by the Navigation Rules (Commandant Instruction 16672.2 series) to indicate a vessel's presence, type, operation, and relative heading.

§ 183.810 Navigation light certification requirements.

(a) Except as provided by paragraph (b) of this section, each navigation light must—

(1) Meet the technical standards of the applicable Navigation Rules;

(2) Be certified by a laboratory listed by the Coast Guard to the standards of ABYC A–16 (incorporated by reference, see §183.5) or equivalent, although portable battery-powered lights need only meet the requirements of the standard applicable to them; and

(3) Bear a permanent and indelible label that is visible without removing or disassembling the light and that states the following:

(i) “USCG Approval 33 CFR 183.810.”

(ii) “MEETS___.” (Insert the identification name or number of the standard under paragraph (a)(2) of this section, to which the laboratory type-tested.)

(iii) “TESTED BY___.” (Insert the name or registered certification-mark of the laboratory listed by the Coast Guard that tested the fixture to the standard under paragraph (a)(2) of this section.)

(iv) Name of manufacturer.

(v) Number of model.

(vi) Visibility of the light in nautical miles.

(vii) Date on which the light was type-tested.

(viii) Identification and specifications of the bulb used in the compliance test.

(b) If a light is too small to attach the required label—

(1) Place the information from the label in or on the package that contains the light; and (2) Mark each light “USCG” followed by the certified range of visibility in nautical miles (nm), for example, “USCG 2nm”. Once installed, this mark must be visible without removing the light.

Peter D. Eikenberry Sr.

Ike is a well known respected Ex. Coast Guard authority, with over 25 year’s experience. His website posted below is well worth reviewing with a wealth of good boating information. http://newboatbuilders.com/

My Reply, Response

Thanks for your reply and quick response Ike,

The administrator of the forum attached to the second link is doing everything he can to push as sell this product to unsuspecting owners of pontoon boats despite the fact that they are in fact illegal as you just confirmed. If the owners of suppliers were stupid enough to make a large purchase of illegal lighting I'd much rather see them eat their loss than maybe ignorant boaters who may think they're cool and purchase them only to see they've been burned..

I'll be posting a warning thread in Pontoon Forums (link posted below) about the products using your respected reply as confirmation and source. You're a member there so it would be possible to add your input if you'd like..

Thanks again,

Gregg

My Correspondence with Ohio DNR on Topic is Below

To: Watercraft

Subject: Could You Provide Me a Link, Please

A recognized online retailer has chosen to handle "under rub-rail lighting" specifically towards pontoon boat owners. I boat on the Muskingum River myself and am aware that there were some people there warned about the installation of such lights on their boats so I'm aware that they're not legal. But times being as they are people want to see rule or law for themselves. Could you provide a link or source where it is written please? I really do hate seeing retailers selling folks stuff they'll never be able to utilize because what they considered "cool" will not only cost them cash at the retailer and at the courthouse.

Thanks,

Gregg

Response is as follows:

Hi Greg,

Thanks for the good question.

I would say that it is Not illegal to install such lights on a pontoon boat. What is illegal is to have them illuminated while on the water. So it wouldn’t be illegal so have them installed and illuminated while at the dock or tied to shore.

Below is the link to the rule that states that no other lights can be exhibited other than proper navigation as described in the rules.

http://codes.ohio.gov/oac/1501:47-2-20

If you have any other questions or need more clarification please feel free to contact me at any time.

Officer Steve Massello

Law Enforcement Search & Rescue Coordinator

ODNR - Division of Watercraft

614-265-6503

As you can see I had to go to a bit of trouble myself to acquire respected references for this posting, so you won’t haft to yourself. Sometimes even with all the resources of the web it’s still sometimes difficult to source the maybe needed information necessary on some subject matter. And I hope you found or find this posting helpful in making or not making an informed purchase of this particular LED Lighting Product.

I also posted this topic in almost duplication here at Pontoon Boat and Deck Boat Forum also and can review some of the comments generated there as well.

The Tale of Two Beers

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2011-02-14T19:57:00Z

Many of you may have found this page or our site either through a search engine or maybe a friend forwarded it your way, and we’re grateful for everyone’s time and interest in our site. The philosophy posted below is found material by an author unknown to us, but may be or close to the best philosophy about life I’ve ever actually read.

“The Mayonnaise Jar and 2 Beers”

When things in your life seem almost too much to handle, when 24 hours in a day are not enough, remember the mayonnaise jar and the 2 Beers.

A professor stood before his philosophy class and had some items in front of him. When the class began, he wordlessly picked up a very large and empty mayonnaise jar and proceeded to fill it with golf balls. He then asked the students if the jar was full.

They agreed that it was.

The professor then picked up a box of pebbles and poured them into the jar He shook the jar lightly. The pebbles rolled into the open areas between the golf balls. He then asked the students again if the jar was full.

They agreed it was.

The professor next picked up a box of sand and poured it into the jar. Of course, the sand filled up everything else. He asked once more if the jar was full.

The students responded with an unanimous ‘yes.

The students laughed.

‘Now,’ said the professor as the laughter subsided, ‘I want you to recognize that this jar represents your life.

The golf balls are the important things—your family, your children, your health, your friends and your favorite passions—and if everything else was lost and only they remained, your life would still be full.

The pebbles are the other things that matter like your job, your house and your car.

The sand is everything else—the small stuff.

‘If you put the sand into the jar first,’ he continued, ‘there is no room for the pebbles or the golf balls.

The same goes for life. If you spend all your time and energy on the small stuff you will never have room for the things that are important to you.
‘
Pay attention to the things that are critical to your happiness. Spend time with your children. Spend time with your parents. Visit with grandparents. Take time to get medical checkups. Take your spouse out to dinner. Play another 18.

There will always be time to clean the house and fix the disposal.

Take care of the golf balls first—the things that really matter.

Set your priorities.

The rest is just sand.’

One of the students raised her hand and inquired what the Beer represented.

The professor smiled and said, ‘I’m glad you asked.’

The Beer just shows you that no matter how full your life may seem, there’s always room for a couple of Beers with a friend.’

In thinking back about all my fondest memories there aren’t recollections of shinny new cars, boats, or trucks…..

My favorite memories are good carefree times shared with others in conveyances many may consider junk…..

Mud, sand, and crumpled cans on the floorboards and laughter in the air, everyone always had a good time because nobody had to care……

Buying a Pontoon Boat Bimini

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2011-01-25T20:08:00Z

One thing I’ve always found frustrating is the fact that nobody stands behind their products. Sure a lot of places want to sell you something, but if you do manage to tear it up somehow they sure aren’t very helpful in sourcing or providing the necessary parts needed to fix it. Suppose you manage to rip your pontoon boats bimini top up on a overhanging limb, well almost exclusively you’ll be screwed and forced to purchase an entire kit frame and all when all you really needed was replacement canvas. It’s just the simple fact that sometimes it’s in your best interest to purchase direct from a manufacture that can or will provide parts and service than a middleman who’s just skimming your wallet as you’re passing through.

There are a lot of different bimini tops out there. Or are there? If you really look you will find a lot of DISTRIBUTORS out there that are selling bimini tops made by companies like Carver, Attwood, and Taylor Made. Sure you can find some that actually manufacture their own but how well do those companies actually stand behind their work? You can tell the confidence a company has in its products by the warranty it is willing to put on it. Many businesses simply warrant the material. For example Sunbrella has a 10 year warranty against fading and deteriorating. Glen Raven Mills who makes sunbrella warrants the material, not the bimini top manufacturer. But what about the craftsmanship of the bimini top itself? You may find some distributors and manufacturers that will give you a 2-3 year warranty on their craftsmanship. I find this insulting and you should too. Basically they are letting you know that they are not confident in either their ability to sew a quality item or they are not willing to use the correct raw materials to do so.

The main factor that determines cost of a bimini top is the fabric. The fabric manufacturer such as Glen Raven Mills’ Sunbrella already warrants the material. All that is left to a bimini top are zippers, thread, and binding also called edging. These are very inexpensive items. You shouldn’t have to buy a brand new bimini because a zipper breaks. You also shouldn’t have to pay a custom canvas shop a lot of money to replace a zipper. You should actually be able to send it to the company that manufactured it and have them fix it for you. These items are inexpensive for the manufacturer and these are also items that you can’t walk into a big box store and purchase. You are at the mercy of the manufacturer or a custom canvas shop to have your bimini top repaired. There is at least one company out there doing what is right they guarantee their work for the entire time you own their bimini top and frame.

When you are shopping for a new bimini top and frame make sure the company you buy your top from only uses marine grade thread that is treated to hold up against UV rays. They should use YKK or Lenzip zippers with metal sliders not plastic sliders. They should use color matched binding and send the entire bimini top through a machine called a serger to ensure the material will not unravel around the edges. The front and rear “pockets” (pieces of material that go around the framework) should be sewn down with three lock stitches instead of just one. This ensures the bimini top won’t separate when tension is applied to the frame to hold the fabric taut. A zipper is usually utilized in the pocket so it can zip around the framework.

Heavy duty stainless strap hooks and heavyweight webbing straps should also be utilized. All the parts that hold the framework together should be treated to resist UV rays. There should be a warranty on those parts as well. Should you break a strap or the pieces that hold the frame together, you should be able to have those parts replaced for free. Why? Because they are inexpensive items and your piece of mind that you have a company standing behind you is worth it. You are also more prone to tell your family and friends about a company that will do this for you. It just makes sense for everyone.

It will pay off for you to do your homework on the company you buy your bimini top from. Make sure you ask these questions and demand answers. Make sure you are aware of what kind of service after the sale you will be getting. If the company you want to buy the bimini top from does not offer warranties for more than a few years put them on the spot and ask why. Demand better. Demand service. Demand quality.

Northstar Products ’ mission is to provide boat owners with high quality parts and products for their boats. We strive to do this at the lowest possible prices while still retaining a high level of customer service. We will exceed your expectations with our quality, timeliness, and professionalism. We are committed to making sure you are pleased with your purchase now and in the future. Northstar has been designing and building canvas for boats for over 35 years. Let our expertise and experience help guide you in making a good decision. If we can’t help you we will point you in the direction of someone who can. Our goal as a fellow boater is to give you the best products at the best prices with the best warranties.

Why Choose a Northstar Bimini?

MADE IN THE USA

35 years experience in the marine industry working directly with boat manufacturer’s

Unmatched quality and craftsmanship. We sew our bimini’s together with three sewing lines.

One lock stitch is ½ in from edge of material.
The second is put in with our surging machine to prevent any possibility of the material fraying or falling apart. The third lock stitch is when our color matched binding (edging) is sewn in place.

These three stitches ensure a strong and durable bimini top for years to come.

An Unbeatable warranty

Should a zipper break, thread break, binding (edging) come off, or snap come loose we will fix it for you at NO CHARGE. You just send the bimini back to us at your cost, and we’ll fix it and get it back to you. We’ll even pay for return shipping it back to you. This also covers your frame. Should any of the parts that hold your frame together break at any point, I will send you replacements at no cost. Should any deck mounts break at any point I’ll send replacements for those as well. All at no cost to you. We’ll stand behind both our work and the products we utilize to build them. The fabrics also have a manufacturer warranty as well, Aqualon / 3 year warranty, and Sunbrella with a 6 year warranties. The fabric warranties are issued by respective fabric manufacturers and are subject to their terms.

Stronger frames, our aluminum square tube frames are made with a .062 wall which is the thickest you can get and still be able to bend the aluminum correctly. Many frames are made with a .047 wall. Thicker wall = stronger frames.

Should you ever need a replacement canvas you can order replacement bimini tops if you already own one of our frames. And these tops will fit exactly like your original one.

Northstar Products Inc.

Boating the Muskingum River 2010

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2010-11-28T21:31:00Z

We’ve observed the first snowflakes of the season here in our part of the country, and our boat is safely stored away. Now our thoughts can reflect back to some of the experiences we shared with our friends this past summer. The atmosphere this summer was somewhat different, perhaps even subdued. The spontaneous fun that we’ve always enjoyed was somewhat lackluster, maybe due to the effects the economy and the job market has had on us all. Many of our friends have lost their jobs; others seemed concerned about their futures. This is not to say that we didn’t have some fun times, but the pall of uncertainty did seem to have its effect.

The rising cost of the gasoline required to operate our boats was also a defining factor, and we did a lot more floating than running at speed, but that sometimes turned out to be a good thing. We often rafted our boats off together and allowed the current to take us slowly down the river while we kicked back and listened to music or had some wonderful conversations with our friends. The sometimes quiet peaceful times often seemed to have a calming effect allowing us an escape from our worries for a while.

My daughter gifted me with an iPod for Christmas two years ago that we now use as the source for music on our boat. This has proved to be the best solution for us as of yet to have and enjoy our favorite artist without incurring all the hassle of finding a place to store all our cds safely away. We have many that are older and would be difficult or impossible to replace if they were lost or somehow damaged. My husband spent a lot of time pulling our favorites cuts off our cds and downloading several songs we did not own from the iTunes library. There was a considerable amount of muttering while he was attempting to navigate iTunes website, but he did a wonderful job. We love to push full random play and wonder what song we will hear next, we have everything from old vintage rock to country and even some of the newer music so it is always different. It is great to look at each other and smile when one of our favorites plays, and say together “good song”.

We’re still very happy with our boat, all the hard work building it has proven out well worth the effort. I would not trade her for one of the fancier, much more expensive houseboats that we’ve had the pleasure to see and board. I’m just so grateful we decided to pay for everything as the work progressed on her, and we’re are not hampered with a burdensome boat payment that may have taken the pleasure of using and enjoying her completely out of our budget. Especially after all the curves the economy seems to have thrown our way.

Some may feel that our boat may be a little too plain, but it is very efficient and it is “comfortable”. Our floating “home away from home” is easy to clean and maintain, and everything we need stows away neatly. We’ve added a few new touches to it every year that adds to both our enjoyment and comfort. I’m planning to make some new cushions for it over the winter. The cushions in the breakfast nook and the built in sofa need better foam so we’ll sleep more comfortably. The fabric that I initially made the cushions from is fading from the sun and is beginning to look a little shabby. I will order denser foam and marine vinyl to make the new set. That should hopefully solve that problem for quite awhile.

Those of you that have read our other posts know that we spend a good bit of time parked on a sandbar in our favorite pool in the river. This year several of our friends decided to spend the night parked on the sand bar overnight with us, we had a lot of fun dancing to the music, sharing our food and drinks and resources all gathered around a bon fire. Fortunately our friends also share our determination to leave the area clean and leaving no indication that anyone had even been there other than the indentation marks from the pontoons and a few footprints in the sand. There is an unspoken rule that we all abide by to protect the river and the resources that we all share.

This year due to the generosity of our friends, we had the privilege of building and adding a dock on their riverfront property. My husband built the dock, which is beautiful and sturdy enough to have a good-sized party on. Read more about how he built the dock here .

Overall, we had a good boating season we also made the trip downriver to attend the Sternwheeler Festival in Marietta, Ohio and had a great time. We had beautiful weather and enjoyed the fantastic fireworks display that was set off from one of the highway bridges. Boating down the Muskingum River through all the historical locks, enjoying the beautiful scenery, with the company of our friends down the river added and made another page in our book of enjoyable memories. We’re already anxiously looking forward to the upcoming year sharing and making more pleasant memories with all our river friends.

Here's to meeting up and sharing some space on the water sometime.
From,
PontoonHouseboatOdyssey

How to Replace Your Pontoon Boat Carpeting

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2010-11-28T16:00:00Z

So the carpeting on your pontoon boat is looking somewhat shabby or otherwise worn out. If you own or have access to basic homeowner tools you’ll probably be able to do the job yourself, and also save yourself some money in the process. The hardest part of the job is the actual removal of the old carpet.

When a pontoon boat is assembled the manufacturers glue the carpeting down to the bare deck before any other hardware or seating has been installed. So you’ll need to do the reverse and take all the components off down to the bare deck again, and then reassemble as we’ll get to later. This is the only right way to do the job and have professional looking results that you will be proud of. I’d also suggest taking some photos along the way, thereby providing yourself a visual reference when reassembling your boat or maybe even for sharing your experience with some friends.

So this is what we’re going to need to do, which we’ll go into better detail below. The seats, railings, console, and bimini top will all have to be removed from the deck and stored somewhere safe and out of the way. Then you’ll need to remove the rub rail “trim” from around the perimeter of the deck and remove the old carpeting. You’ll then install the new carpet and reassemble the boat.

A Suggested List Necessary Tools and Supplies

First you’ll need to purchase or acquire your replacement marine carpet or vinyl in your choice of color at least as wide and long to seamlessly cover the entire deck, along with a couple of gallons of the proper adhesive to glue it into place.
Then round up some container(s) in which to keep all the nuts, bolts, and screws etc. in as you remove them. Also gather up a utility knife and some extra sharp blades, wrenches, sockets, ratchet, screwdrivers, wire cutters, masking tape, sharpie, butt connectors for wire, plastic wire ties, trash bag or two, some c-clamps or vice grips, right angle grinder, maybe a come-along, staple gun and some stainless steel staples, some old maybe used paint rollers, and a heavy roller in which to set the new carpet/flooring into the glue.

If you can’t access a roller a four-by-four block of wood and a large hammer will work, but it is more effort and will take longer.

The first thing we’ll want to do is disconnect the battery, then we’ll no longer need to worry about any live wires or shorts as we’re working. Use caution and attempt not to damage any wiring by just pulling on it. Remember there will be various wires running to every component or feature aboard your boat and they’ll either need to be reused or replaced. Some of the wires will have connectors that will simply pull apart, if not simply cut the wires and label them with masking tape for your future reference. All the cut wires will be spliced back together utilizing butt connectors during the reassembly process.

Let’s remove the bimini top “first” and get it out of the way. Somewhere on the console side there will be wiring that runs up to the anchor light, find this wiring first and disconnect it before addressing the bolts that attach it to the railing.

Next we’ll remove all the seating from the boat. As a rule most seats are generally screwed into the plywood deck (but not always) you’ll need to find and remove all the fasteners and place them in a container for reuse (remember to mark and identify unplug/cut any wiring as necessary). In some instances you may also find the seats may be fastened to the fence railing as well. As you get the seating freed remove it from the boat and continue on until all the seats are removed from the boat.

Now it’s time to remove all the fence railing, supports, and any lighting from the deck. Doing this before removing the console will actually makes it easier. As you remove the bolts place them all in your cool whip container or whatever, but do not lose them we’ll need them all for reassembly later.

Now it’s time to remove the console as a complete assembly. You will not need to take anything apart in the dashboard though you will need to disconnect all the wires that go down through the deck. You will observe a hole in the bottom of the console that goes on through the deck itself where the wiring harness extends to the various electrical components and or speakers throughout the boat. First let’s disconnect the wiring harness; there are usually some plugs that can be carefully pulled apart, this feature also allowed for fast and easy assembly at the factory. Any wiring failing to have plugs either disconnect or cut them, remembering to label them to as to where they came from. Cut any wire ties holding the harness to the console and the wiring is now ready to be pushed down through the deck and out of the way.

Now to disconnect the steering cable, most pontoons utilize a rotary type system that has a quick disconnect feature. Get a light and look up to where the cable goes into the steering helm. You’ll probably see a clip and you’ll need to pull it out and store it for safekeeping. There is usually a push lock located right where the cable goes in, push it and give the cable a tug at the same time and the cable should come loose. You still may need to cut some plastic ties but otherwise you are now ready to feed it down through the deck. Note: the now exposed end of the cable is usually thick with grease!! You may want a bread bag or something to stick over it to protect everything from grease contamination.

Now on to the easy part, remove the bolts/screws that hold the console to the deck and take the whole assembly and store it somewhere safely out of the way.

We’re now on to removing the outer parameter trim/rub rail from the deck. First remove all the corner pieces from both the front and back of the boat, and on some models there will be an additional four (two inside, two outside) around the cutout for the motor. Sometimes looking under the edge from the underside you’ll observe some small screws that hold the trim to the deck, and you’ll also want to remove them. Now starting at one of the ends of the trim slide a screwdriver between the trim and the deck and gently pry the trim back away from the deck. Now you want to carefully work the trim loose all the way down the length of the boat. Just don’t get to aggressive with it, you really don’t want to bend, kink or otherwise damage it.

We’re now looking at bare deck with nothing on it but the shabby old carpeting.

On to removing the old carpeting, first take a razor or utility knife and cut the old carpeting about six inches in around the entire deck. This is an attempt of preventing the plywood from being delaminated or otherwise damaged while removing the old carpet. Many pontoon boat manufactures actually staple the edges of the carpet to the deck to hold it in place for the trim assembly. What you’ll want to do is start by removing the outer six inches you just previously cut making every effort you can to avoid damaging the edge of the deck. Use a stout putty knife or whatever you find that helps you in getting some of it loose. After loosening enough carpet to actually get a hold of, try pulling it outwards about even with the side of the boat while praying that it actually comes off in one long length.

Now that we’ve got the carpet edges done it’s now time to do the “rest of the carpet”.

Let’s go to the back of the deck and attempt to pull the carpet by hand. If it’s securely adhered try scraping a foot or so loose across the back and attempt pulling it again. Still won’t move for you, since the back carpet is usually in better condition you may want to pull it. Take a length of two by four and piece of pipe or whatever and roll it up and somehow clamp everything together. Grab your trusty come-along or even utilizing the boat winch itself, after somehow getting a good secure hitch to the carpeting start winching away until either the carpet tears and repeat as necessary or it is all otherwise removed from the deck.

Deck preparation, this can sometimes take some time and effort. The entire surface must be smooth and free of any dirt or contamination. Use a scrapper to clear off any small areas of carpet that may still remain. A right angle grinder can also be useful in getting the remaining old glue and carpet off. If there are any voids or low spots due to delaminating of the plywood, use any waterproof wood filler or caulking to fill the voids. However whatever you use must set up hard. When you’re all done scraping, grinding, and sanding, take the time to sweep or vacuum the deck off thoroughly.

Well we’re halfway home; we now have a clean sound deck without anything on it.

The installation of your new marine carpeting starts by unrolling the new carpet out on the deck and positioning it so there is hangover on the edge all the way around the deck. I’ve always disconnected the control cables and steering cables and feed them down below the deck, but you may have chosen not to yourself. If you left yours exposed we’ll now position the carpet and cut an X in it with the utility knife and feed the cables up through the new carpeting. The cut will be under the console so it won’t show so no one will ever know.

Now leave the carpet in place and roll it back to the cables if left exposed or about halfway down the boat if you didn’t. Now pour a generous quantity of glue onto the deck and use a long handled paint roller to spread it all around evenly. Then roll the carpet back out on top of the glue, and utilize the heavy roller on top of the carpet to firmly set carpet into the glue.

When you’re satisfied the first half is done, roll the unglued half back to the previously glued surface. If you left the cables exposed take special care now to brush some glue in that area and then proceed to pour another generous amount onto the deck and spread it around just as you’ve already done on the first half. Then rolling the carpet back out on top of the glue, again utilizing the roller on top to set everything.

If you just don't have access to or can rent a roller, use a 4x4 block of wood and a large hammer.(this will take longer, but it will work) After rolling the carpet out over the glue, use the block of wood on top of the new carpet and hit it with the hammer while moving the block with each hit until the entire area has been covered. This will set the carpet into the glue.

Now go around the entire edge of the deck with a utility knife and carefully trim all the excess carpet even with the edge of the plywood. Then Grab the stapler and staple the edge of the carpet to the deck. The staples need to be no more than 1/4" from the edge, all the way around, and about an inch or two apart.

Reassembly of the boat is in the exact reverse order in which you just took it apart, just put everything back together again. Starting with the trim around the deck, Use the rubber mallet to pound it back on along the edge of the plywood. Suggestion when you’ve got the edge mostly back into place, bolt the corners back to it. The trim can be pounded on the end(s) to move it forward or backward to line up the corners. Finish pounding the trim on, putting any screws removed back into the bottom side of the trim to hold it to the deck.

Tip: Use a scraper or a stout utility knife to push any carpet back under the trim that may have gotten pushed back when putting the trim back on.

Now to finish putting all the seating and components back onto the boat. Now if you didn’t manage to keep all the fasteners separated during the disassembly you’ll need to dump them all out, and sort them by size, length, and type of fastener. This will make it easy to find the ones you need when you actually need them. Start by counting the number of places that need the same type of bolt, then back to the sorted bolts for the quantity with that number. (most of the time that's all you’ll really need to figure it out). Use special care to match up all previously marked and cut wires and make sure to make good butt joint crimps in their reassembly.

Then after you think everything is back and right, do a final check to insure that all navigation, docking, anchor, speakers, etc. are hooked back up and still working as they should before you’re really needing them out on the water.

Though “carpet” was primarily referred to in the above “how to”, marine vinyl is also installed following the exact same procedures except the manufacture may recommend a specific adhesive for their product.

If you have any further questions, please post on the comments below and we’ll attempt to help you out…..

Thanks for visiting us here at PontoonHouseboatOdyssey

Quality Boating Accessories & Supplies

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2010-11-28T15:43:00Z

Is your pontoon boat in need of a rebuild or restoration to improve its appearance? Fortunately with their relatively simple construction pontoon boats may be the simplest and easiest boat out there to work on yourself. Depending on the overall condition your current pontoon boat or one you’re contemplating on buying. With quality replacement seats, furniture, and accessories, or maybe even a new bimini top or canopies you may be well on your way to restoring your pontoon to maybe a better than new condition. Let’s use a photo of this pontoon boat as an extreme example of a very good rebuild and restoration.

View Photo of this Pontoon Boat after the complete rebuild below

As you can clearly see in the photo this pontoon boat has been sitting neglected in a woodlot for quite some time. Any person with just some basic skills can take a rundown rotted out pontoon boat in deplorable condition and turn it into a quality boat anyone would be proud to own and you can save thousands off the price of new. Always give the pontoons, cross members, railing, and fencing careful evaluation and make sure they are still in sound and serviceable condition. These also are replaceable and available but are very difficult to match and obtain should they be damaged beyond usable condition. You may need to install some new quality marine plywood for decking, and your choice of floor covering which could be either marine carpet, or vinyl. Or better yet you may order a complete pontoon boat decking kit and save some money. The decking kits come complete with new fasteners, quality marine plywood decking and marine carpeting in various color choices and weights.

Now that the decks are refurbished you’ll need to choose between either purchasing a replacement pontoon boat seating group or individual boat seats both are available and hopefully you’ll find something in a style and color that suits your theme and budget. In many cases matching marine vinyl can also be purchased separately should you want or need to reupholster any existing furniture on your boat such as the console or sun deck to match your new replacement seating. You may consider other boat accessories such as tables to complement your interior restoration and they are also available in a wide variety of choices.

In the demolition or the restoration of your boat, was the apparent condition of the electrical wiring safe? In many older boats you’ll find where numerous splices in the wiring harness have been installed for variety of reasons. Age and UV light reflected up from the water can also take its toll on the boats wiring, mainly because in pontoon boats in most instances the wiring is left exposed underneath and vulnerable to damage. If you’re already doing a rebuild of the boat anyway, there’s no better time to address any electrical wiring issues. I’d especially recommend the marine electronics available below at EzAcDc. Boating marine electronics just doesn’t get any easier than what’s available there. Prefabricated pontoon boat wiring harnesses are available with plug and play electrical accessories. Many of the marine boat lighting accessories both navigation and docking lights are also low current drawing LED’s, which also have plugs included to simply tie into your existing boat wiring harness. Also check out the boating electrical control switch panels which are wood grain in appearance and look fabulous, and are also plug and play with the pontoon boat wiring harness. But they also have pigtails included for easily splicing into your existing boat wiring harness, then plug and play. This marine switch panel actually should work real well in a wide variety of boat styles and marine applications.

How is the existing fencing on the boat? Hopefully it’s in good serviceable condition, though new fencing is available it highly unlikely to match your current existing pontoon fence very satisfactorily unless you replace it all. In many instances a little straightening and putting in new fence paneling will provide satisfactory results. Now all that’s left to do is to reinstall or replace the bimini top to complement the color choices of your replacement components. Also consider picking up a good sturdy boat ladder in a style of your choice to mount on your boat they are a real nice and useful value added option that should be included on any boat. The last necessary item is a good quality pontoon boat cover, so you can enjoy and protect your investment for many memorable future years of boating.

scbadiver's Pontoon Boat Rebuild this is the same boat as posted above.

This article would not be complete without mentioning pontoon boat trailers. Here is a good page with a wide selection of available trailers for your pontoon boat. Who knows the value may make it worthwhile to make a trip to pick a trailer up along with other items for your pontoon boat restoration.

Pontoon Stuff's Family of Quality Boating Accessories

Pontoon Stuff.com-----------------Boat Carpet Store
Pontoon Boat Furniture-----------Bass Boat Carpet
Pontoon Boat Seats---------------Runabout Boat Carpet
Pontoon Boat Carpet--------------Ski Boat Carpet
Pontoon Boat Bimini Tops -------Pontoon Boat Carpet
Marine Plywood--------------------Cruiser/Cuddy Boat Carpet
Pontoon Boat Covers-------------Carpet Adhesive

Back to Boating---------------------Boat Seat Store
Attwood Gas Springs--------------Bass Boat Seats
Seat Hardware----------------------Folding Fishing Seats
Attwood Transom Savers---------Bucket Seats
Navigation Lights-------------------Back to Back Boat Seats
Battery Boxes & Trays-------------Pontoon Boat Seats
Bilge Pumps-------------------------Designer Boat Seats
Livewell Pumps---------------------Offshore Boat Seats

The EzAcDc Difference
Wiring a boat used to be a major headache to say the least. Wells here's a new line to the Pontoon Stuff's family of products that's designed from the ground up to reduce or eliminate those headaches. Though relativity new to the family here it's well worth your time to investigate it. These are some really nice looking electrical accessories and plug and play wiring that couldn't make wiring a boat any simpler.

Also Check Out Pontoon Stuff's E-Bay Store For Potential Values

If you're considering a pontoon boat purchase, rebuilding, or seeking pontoon boat parts, and looking for advice or information. I'd highly recommend the above suppliers and also check out and join their forum at Pontoon Stuff where's there’s a good knowledgeable group of members who love sharing and helping others with their questions.

For more information about Pontoon Boat Construction, or to read and share some of our experiences with Pontoon Boats please visit our home site, or click on links here to view other pages of our blogs.

Thank you for visiting us here at Pontoon Houseboat Odyssey

Building a Boat Dock with Pontoons

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2010-11-25T21:23:00Z

Have you ever considered building your own personal boat dock or fishing pier? In a chance encounter I ran into just too good a buy and opportunity to purchase a couple of pontoons on which to construct a dock for our boat. When I happened upon the pontoons the reality of it was I was actually looking for barrels for the actual construction. But the problem was I was actually having a hard time locating enough suitable barrels within a decent driving range of my home that they weren’t attempting to get an arm and a leg out of to boot. Now if you have had any real experience with boat docks you’re aware that though barrels will and do make a decent enough boat dock they do have their shortcomings. One being is they can be difficult to strap or fasten to the bottom of the dock securely where they’ll stay. Another being unless you’re real careful about dock construction and design they do have a tendency to pop up the deck boards on top of the dock above the barrels. And third at least up here in the north due to snow and ice boat docks need to be removed on a seasonal basis and it’s not uncommon to observe a barrel escaping downriver when the docks are pulled. By utilizing pontoons for our dock at least I’ve eliminated a few sources of reoccurring problems of being a dock owner and now have a good serviceable dock that should last many years without any real issues or repairs to deal with.

The pontoons as purchased had been prior my acquisition been utilized on a homemade pontoon houseboat. As such the factory cross members had been long lost when some previous owner built their boat. You can see some of remaining two by fours left from the previous structure still fastened to the pontoons. Since such a key element of building another boat or even a boat dock was missing, I used in my favor to substantially lower the purchase price he was asking for them. These pontoons are a bit unusual at twenty eight feet in length, most if not all the used and available pontoons you may be able to find will usually be somewhat shorter in length.

I’ve worked construction and sort of got lucky in a demolition job I was assigned to a while back. The 2X6's used in the construction were essentially “free” to me. They came off a fire destroyed home the company I worked for was demoing, so I agreed to remove them on “my time” if they agreed to let me have the salvaged materials.

I made every attempt to keep the all the costs minimized for this project by utilizing left over materials I still had laying around from my pontoon houseboat rebuild. The hardware utilized to fasten the 2X6 cross members to the pontoons was cut from some of the left over railing and rub rails again using basically free materials. The only real downside of me or anyone for that matter being so frugal and green is that it did increase the total amount of time incurred for completion of the project, but since my time is considered far less valuable than my dollar (just ask anyone you’ve worked for) so I figure it was a fair trade-off in value.

I decided to personalize our dock by routering our boat name into the wood on both sides before fastening the boards to the deck. Though I was apprehensive about freehand lettering utilizing a router because I’ve never attempted it before, it actually was in reality easy should you care to attempt it on yours. The inside and outside corners were fashioned out of some app. 3/16th aluminum scrap that I also had laying around. After cutting it to the correct width of 5 and ½ inches and bent 90 deg. They were all trial fitted to their particular corner and drilled for their fasteners. Being that each corner was then in essence unique to their placement each was then marked and identified so they could or would be put back into their perspective place. The outside corners were then removed and a triangle file was utilized to make the round holes square to properly receive the 3/8in. hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts utilized to bolt everything together. If this sounds or seems it may be to much trouble you can your purchase dock corners here if you’d like for your dock.

As you can see in this photo the actual dock is near completion and all that is really left is adding some personal touches and details we desired for “our personalized boat dock”.

In my opinion a boat dock is not or ever complete without the installation of cleats in which to make the boat secured to it. Though I fail to have photos of it, each of the cleats are bolted not only to the top deck boards but also to the parameter rub boards by heavy aluminum angle. We boat in a river and I’ve witnessed docks missing the deck board(s) cleats, boats and all ripped loose by debris flowing downriver when the water rises. And I personally don’t care to be chasing down my boat, dock or anything else for that matter downriver during such a high water event. So I consider a little effort to have soundly secured cleats and good mooring lines essential to ensure everything stays in place until the water recedes worthwhile.

Whenever building a project such as this at least in my opinion it’s important to use best quality preferably stainless steel nuts, bolts, screws and fasteners available. Though I did use some hot dipped galvanized carriage bolts, they still are superior to zinc plated el cheapies most commonly available at least around here. I would have purchased stainless steel ones if I could have got my hands on some short of mail ordering them. With quality work and just some preventive care a person can expect years of use out of a well built dock, why have premature failure due to the use of cheap fasteners.

If you'd like you can view a few more photo's here of our building a pontoon boat dock. I'd planned to link them all here, but the powers to be that control this site made sure that it wasn't possible for me to do so. And I'd like to thank you for visiting us here at PontoonHouseboatOdyssey .

Etiquette around Marinas and Docks

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2010-10-15T21:36:00Z

Now that summer is winding down for this season I thought it was time to reflect back on some of my experiences at the marinas/docks I encountered. Marinas are often busy places where fellow boaters are making the transitions necessary for preparing themselves for a day on the water. The busiest times are often on weekend mornings when boats, boaters, families and friends are all arriving for their anticipated day on the water they’ve been looking forward to all week. Sometimes in all of our eagerness to get out on the water the whole process can sometimes outwardly appear to turn into mass chaos. Here are a few suggestions that may make docking and the transition a better experience for everyone involved.

Don’t tie up near the launch area Trailerable boats need access to the dock next to the ramps as they guide their boats from attached mooring lines. Only utilize docking next to the ramp for the brief amount time needed for you to actually launch or retrieve your boat.

Approach and depart slowly Wakes are disruptive to any berthed vessels, folks launching or retrieving their boats as well as to any people that may be out on the docks. A dock/ harbor should be a place of safety and any buffeting waves from boats make it harder to concentrate and safely walk when all the docks are bouncing up & down.

Passing any Docks/Marinas When passing docks, marinas, or harbors, you’re responsible for your wake and any damages that it may create. Remember your boats wakes can and will travel across small and medium size lakes/rivers and can cause problems for others well after you’ve passed through the area.

Powerboats are far more agile and have less draft than sail boats. Being far more maneuverable, powered boats should utilize the tie ups in the tighter and shallower areas of the docks and leaving the more accessible berths for the larger boats.

Sharing the Common Dockage Don’t just simply tie up and leave your boat in the middle of any available dockage thus making it difficult or preventing others from using the rest of the available docking space.

While docked, watch out for others on the dock Not everyone on or near boats are actually true boaters. Respectfully place and keep your supplies, lines, electrical cords, and equipment out of the way where kids, older people and maybe people who also can’t swim will not tripping over on and potentially falling into the water. Many injuries can and often do occur amongst the moored boats and the docks.

When on the dock, people should attempt to keep it clear for others. Parents need to explain to their children that docks are potentially dangerous place and that they should stand aside for everyone’s safety. Instruct them that running and playing is not allowed in the area. Also parents should always insure their kids are wearing their life jackets on the docks at all times.

When arriving, mind when its your turn There is usually no one official in charge on the water and so boaters need to keep order among themselves upon returning to the docks. It’s very tempting for the smaller and more nimble crafts to attempt to dart ahead of any larger and slower boats. But always remember, you’re likely going to meet your fellow boaters face to face soon enough back on land.

Let’s always be courteous Being on the dock you can often help returning boaters by taking the mooring lines for them and tying them to dock cleats. Always offer a helping hand to disembarking boaters who may still have wobbly sea legs.

Unlike in a car, boaters do not become anonymous once they are aboard their craft. We all share a common body of water and our waves and our actions may often travel over great distances. Being a responsible boater means watching out for others, respecting their property, ensuring everyone has an opportunity to have a wonderful day on the water. Let’s all make courtesy contagious!

Winterizing a Boat

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2010-10-06T19:09:00Z

As the leaves begin turning and the chorus of migrating waterfowl looms ever closer, thoughts often turn from lakes and rivers to the fields and woodlots. But Before putting the boat away for the season, proper winterizing will ensure your rig is ready to go again in the spring. There are three general areas that will require attention, including the outboard motor and fuel system, boat, and trailer.

Outboard Motor & Fuel System
Fill the fuel tank(s) with non-oxygenated fuel and add the proper amount of fuel stabilizer to the gasoline. The stabilizer will prevent fuel decomposition and varnish from building up in the fuel system. Full fuel tanks prevent condensation from forming on the inside of the tanks. In addition, full fuel tanks pose less potential fire risk than tanks that are only partially full.

Start the motor and let it run for 15-20 minutes to ensure that the stabilized fuel has been distributed to all points in the system, including fuel lines, filters, carburetors, etc. This can be done in the driveway, using a set of muffs and a garden hose to supply water to the intakes, or during the last outing of the season.

While the motor is still running, fog the motor by spraying fogging oil into the air intakes on the carburetors or the EFI system. It may be necessary to remove the air box to access the carburetor throats. Some motors are equipped with fogging ports that make the fogging process much easier. The fogging oil puts a liberal coating of oil on the internal motor components and prevents corrosion. Refer to your owners manual for specific instructions on how to fog your particular motor. The motor will smoke profusely and want to stall while the fogging oil is being injected. A little extra throttle will ensure that the motor remains running until the fogging process is complete. Once complete, allow the motor to stall by continuing to inject the fogging oil.

Depending upon the particular motor, it may be easier to perform the fogging by using multiple cans of fogging oil at the same time.

With the kill switch in the "off" position, turn the motor over a few seconds to remove any residual water from the water pump.

Remove the spark plugs and spray fogging oil directly into each cylinder for 3-4 seconds while turning the motor over by hand. This will distribute a light coat of oil onto the cylinder walls.

Replace the spark plugs and torque to proper specifications. Install new spark plugs after the first run in the spring to ensure the new plugs do not become fouled with fogging oil.

Drain and refill the lower unit lubricant. Replace the washers on all drain and vent plugs each time the lower unit is serviced. Inspect the drained oil for any signs of water intrusion or chunks of metal on the drain screw magnet. If gear case work is needed, the time to address the problem is now, not in the spring. It is best to allow the motor to sit for a day or so after use to allow any air entrained in the lubricant to escape prior to servicing the lower unit. The entrained air in the lower unit lubricant can reflect a "milky" appearance, which is sometimes confused with water in the lubricant.

Check the oil reservoir(s) for sludge (a turkey baster works well) and fill the oil reservoir with fresh oil to prevent condensation during storage. If you own a 4 stroke motor, now’s the time to change the crankcase oil and oil filter.

If the motor is equipped with power tilt and trim, check the fluid level in the pump and top off if necessary. Refer to your owner’s manual for specific instructions on how to check the pump fluid level. Apply a film of grease to the tilt/trim rams to prevent any corrosion and pitting.

Remove propeller and check for fishing line or other foreign material around the prop shaft near the seals. Inspect the prop for any nicks or cracks or damage. Again, now is the time to address these types of problems. Before replacing the prop, clean the old grease from the shaft and apply new lubricant. Finally, replace the prop, thrust washers, etc, and torque to proper specification.

Lubricate all service points, including grease zerks, shift and throttle linkages, etc. Refer to your owner’s manual for the specific lubrication points.

Finally, store motor in the "down" position. This will ensure all water is completely drained, and prevents water from collecting in the exhaust and prop area. Also, with the motor in the lowest position, the tilt/trim rams (if equipped) are retracted within the pump housing, preventing surface corrosion on metal that would otherwise be exposed.

Boat
Remove all electronics and store in a warm, dry area. Most electronic items come with a plastic carrying case. These cases make ideal storage containers and protect the electronics from damage.

Trolling motors should be removed and stored in a heated area. The powerful magnets in today's trolling motors can be damaged by freezing temperatures.

Remove all equipment and gear from the boat, including life vests, rods and tackle, anchors, ropes, etc. Check over all items for signs of wear or other defects, and repair or replace as necessary.

Check the water level in all batteries and bring all batteries up to a full state of charge. Clean and grease all battery connections to prevent corrosion. Ensure all switches are off, or better yet disconnect all the connections to the batteries. Cable ties can be used to keep all appropriate terminals together to ensure proper reconnection in the spring. If your boat is equipped with an appropriate on-board charging system, this can be left connected and on for the duration of storage. If not check the batteries every couple of months, topping off the charge on each battery as needed.

Check the boat's steering and electrical systems for any problems or wear.

Clean and lube the steering rams if equipped with mechanical steering.

Hydraulic systems should be topped off and marine grease applied to the cylinder ram to prevent corrosion and pitting.

Vacuum the floor and all compartments to remove any spilled foodstuffs that could attract mice or other rodents. Fabric softener sheets, such as Bounce, or moth balls placed in all storage compartments and around the floor of the boat is an effective method of repelling pesky rodents.

Prop all storage compartments open slightly with a piece of Styrofoam or something similar to ensure that air can freely circulate throughout the entire boat. In addition, containers of moisture absorber such as Sta-dri, which is available from most hardware stores, can be placed in the boat to absorb moisture and prevent mildew.

If your boat utilizes removable pedestals, such as the Springfield Taper-Lock or Swivl-Eze Wedge systems, apply a light coating of lubricant, such as Paraffin wax, to the plastic portion that fits into the seat base. This will allow for easy removal of the pedestals in the future.

Check all live wells, pumps, and hoses to be sure all the water is removed from the system. This can be accomplished easily with the use of an air compressor. Another option is to flush the entire system out with RV antifreeze.

If your boat is equipped with a speedometer and/or water pressure gauge, ensure all water is removed from the lines. Any remaining water can freeze and crack the lines.

Check and tighten any loose screws throughout the entire boat.
If the boat will be stored outdoors, remove the drain plug and store the boat with the bow elevated. This will allow any water that should enter the boat to be able to drain.

If the boat will be stored outdoors, place a plastic tarp over the boat cover, if equipped. This will keep stains from birds, leaves, etc. off the cover, and will allow for easy snow removal. Make sure the cover and/or tarp is sufficiently supported so that water and snow cannot collect and pool.

Trailer
Remove, clean, and inspect the wheel bearings for any signs of rust, pitting, etc. If the bearings are to be replaced, the bearings and races should be replaced as a set. The seals should also be replaced each time the bearings are removed for inspection or replacement.

Rotate tires and check them for proper inflation. This is typically 50 psi (or more) for trailer tires. Consult the sidewall of the tire for the recommended proper inflation pressure.

Inspect the trailer coupler and latch assembly. Replace any worn or missing parts as needed.

Inspect the condition of the safety chains and their associated fasteners. Replace any worn damaged or missing parts as needed.

Check the operating condition of all the lights and wiring. Repair or replace as needed.

Inspect the winch strap, and replace if it's worn or torn.

Inspect all rollers/bunks, carpet, nuts, bolts and other hardware. Tighten, repair or replace as necessary.

If the trailer is equipped with brakes, check the brake fluid level in the reservoir (if surge brakes). Also, check the condition of the pads and drums/rotors. Replace as needed.

Check the license plate for expiration dates, and renew as required.

If the boat will not have to be moved during storage, jack stands can be placed under the axles to remove the load from the bearings and tires.

If the boat will be stored outside, place a shield over the tires to protect them from the damaging UV rays of the sun that will deteriorate the tires rubber compounds over time.

A few dollars in materials now and a few hours of your time will not only give you piece of mind about your investment, but can save on major repairs and major headaches come springtime. By following these procedures along with any specific items listed in your owner’s manual, you will be rewarded with a dependable Outboard Motor come spring.

By: David W. Estensen @ www.walleyecentral.com /> I couldn't have written it better, so I'm giving above author his due credit

Facts about Trailer Tires

blog.houseboatodyssey1.com — 2010-09-28T13:31:00Z

Trailer Tire Applications
Trailer tires are designed for use on trailer axles only. They are not built to handle the loads applied to, or the traction requirements of, any drive or steering axles.

An "LT" designation on a trailer tire size specifies load range only. It is not designed for use on light trucks.

Never mount "ST" or "LT" trailer tires on any passenger car or light truck.

Why Use an "ST" Tire
"ST" tires feature materials and construction needs to meet the higher load requirements and demands of trailering.

The polyester cords are bigger than they would be for a comparable "P" or "LT" tire.

The steel cords have a larger diameter and greater tensile strength to meet the additional load requirements.

"ST" tire rubber compounds also contain more chemicals to resist weather and ozone cracking.

Inflation
Always inflate trailer tires to the maximum inflation indicated on the sidewalls.

Check inflation when the tires are cool and have not yet been exposed to sunlight.

If the tires are hot to the touch from operation, add three psi to the max inflation.

Note: Under inflation is the number one cause of trailer tire failure.

Load Carrying Capacity
All tires must be identical in size for the tires to properly manage the weight of the trailer.

The combined capacity of the tires must equal or exceed the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) of the axle.

The combined capacity of all of the tires should exceed the loaded trailer weight by 20 percent.

If the actual weight is not available, use the trailer GVW. If a tire fails on a tandem axle trailer, you should consider replacing both tires on that side. The remaining tire is likely to have been subjected to excessive loading.

If the tires are replaced with tires of larger diameter, the tongue height may need to be adjusted to maintain proper weight distribution.

Speed
All "ST" tires have a maximum speed rating of 65 mph.

As heat builds up, the tire's structure starts to disintegrate and weaken.

The load carrying capacity gradually decreases as the heat and stresses generated by higher speed increases.

Time
Time and the elements will eventually weaken trailer tires.

In approximately three years, roughly one-third of the tire's strength is gone.

Three to five years is considered the normal projected life of a trailer tire.

It is suggested that trailer tires should be replaced after three to four years of service regardless of tread depth or tire appearance.

Mileage
Trailer tires were or are not designed to be worn out.

The life of a trailer tire is limited by time and duty cycles.

The mileage expectation of a trailer tire is only 5,000 to 12,000 miles.

Storage
The ideal storage for trailer tires is in a cool, dark garage at maximum inflation.

Consider using tire covers to protect the tires from direct sunlight.

Use thin plywood sections between the tire and the pavement.

For long term storage, put the trailer on blocks to take the weight off the tires. Then lower the air pressure and cover the tires to protect them from direct sunlight.

Maintenance
Clean the tires using mild soap and water.

Do not use tire-care products containing alcohol or petroleum distillates.

Inspect the tires for any cuts, snags, bulges or punctures.

Check the inflation before towing and again before the return trip.

Keys to Avoiding Trouble
Make sure your rig is equipped with the proper tires.

Maintain the tires meticulously.

Replace trailer tires every three to five years, whether they appear like they're worn out or not.

Trailer Tire Warranty
The OE (original equipment) warranty goes into effect when the trailer / tires are purchased.

So you’re in the market of buying a trailer. Often, people think the tires are new because they appear new. As everyone who’s owned a trailer knows, most trailer tires simply don't last very long. It's actually easy to tell the age of a tire. It's posted right on the tire. Anytime you buying tires, you should check their age.

Forget all the numbers and letters except for the 5107. The other numbers or letters refer to the plant where the tires were manufactured. Who cares? The 5107 is what is important. The 51 stands for the fifty first week of the year the in 07. So this tire was manufactured the third week of December 2007. If the number was 1310 the tire would have been manufactured approximately April 2010.

Maybe you’ll sometime find this useful in the future.